Refi CompassMortgage decision tools

Recast vs Refinance

Both lower the payment. One keeps the loan you have and the rate you have; the other replaces both. Which is cheaper turns almost entirely on how your current rate compares with today's.

Private by design. Your numbers stay on this device.

Educational estimates only. Not financial, tax, or lending advice.

Which one lowers your payment for less?

If your current rate is below what lenders are offering, a recast is usually the cheaper way to a lower payment. It applies a lump sum to principal and re-amortizes the smaller balance over the time already left, at the rate you already have. There is no new loan, no appraisal and no closing costs — just a servicer fee, commonly in the low hundreds.

If your current rate is at or above today’s, a refinance can lower the payment without a lump sum at all, and can cut total interest as well. It costs 2% to 5% of the loan in closing costs and restarts the amortization schedule, which is what the break-even figures below are measuring.

The two are not exclusive. A refinance changes the price of the debt; a recast changes the size of it. Only one of them needs cash you may not have.

Built for US mortgages. Every figure below is an editable example you enter — never a live quote.

Stays on this device

Your mortgage today

The current figures come off your latest statement. The proposed rate should come from a Loan Estimate rather than a headline, and the lump sum is money you would actually have to hand over.

The payoff balance you owe today, not the original loan amount.

Leave at 0 to calculate it from the balance, rate and term.

Sets the dates in the schedule below.

Today's value, used for loan-to-value and how much equity you can reach.

Your lump sum, and the refinance on offer

Only the figures this page needs.

Enter the rate after any discount points you are buying.

Matching your remaining term avoids restarting the amortization clock.

Edit either one and the other follows.

Counted as an upfront cost, in addition to closing costs above.

Keeps cash in your pocket and raises the balance you pay interest on.

Applied to principal, then the payment is re-amortized over the remaining term.

Leave blank to apply it at the first payment.

Servicers commonly charge $150–$500.

The least your servicer will accept before agreeing to re-amortize.

Taxes, insurance and HOA

The same in every option here, so they cannot change which one wins — but they are part of the payment shown below, so they should be yours rather than ours.

Property tax runs from about 0.26% of value in Hawaii to about 2.08% in New Jersey, and insurance from roughly $738 a year in Hawaii to $8,471 in Florida. On a typical loan that gap moves the monthly payment further than a half-point of interest rate does.

What you can actually reach

None of this changes the arithmetic. It decides which options are open to you, so an option you cannot take is not compared as if you could.

Servicers generally do not recast government-backed loans.

Optional. Leave at zero and no option is ruled out on cash.

Optional. What you could pay above the required payment, every month.

How long you will keep this mortgage

Costs are totalled over this period, not over the full term.

Results update as you type — this just jumps you down to them.

Over your 7-year stay

Read the cash column beside the savings. A recast that wins on total cost is not open to you without the lump sum, and a refinance that wins is not open to you if the closing costs have to be paid in cash you do not have.

  • Keep current
    Monthly payment
    $2,767
    Net cost over your stay
    $465,286
    vs keeping your mortgage
    Break-even, ours
    Break-even, conventional
  • Rate & term refi
    Monthly payment
    $2,623
    Net cost over your stay
    $449,929
    vs keeping your mortgage
    +$15,357
    Break-even, ours
    Month 29
    Break-even, conventional
    Nothing upfront to recover
  • Recast
    Monthly payment
    $2,422
    Net cost over your stay
    $442,835
    vs keeping your mortgage
    +$22,451
    Break-even, ours
    Ahead from month 1
    Break-even, conventional
    12 years 2 months

Why two break-even figures? The conventional figure counts only the monthly payment saving against the cash you pay upfront. Ours also counts what you still owe when you sell, which is why the two disagree.

Compared over

the 7 years you expect to stay

Two break-even figures. The conventional figure counts only the monthly payment saving against the cash you pay upfront. Ours also counts what you still owe when you sell, which is why the two disagree.

How to read this: “Low” marks the lowest figure among the scenarios shown — it is not a recommendation. Net cost counts payments made plus the balance still owed at the end of your stay, minus cash received, which is what makes loans of different sizes and terms comparable.

Full amortization schedule

Every payment, month by month: how much goes to interest, how much retires principal, and what you still owe afterwards. The last money column is the all-in cost — principal, interest, any extra you send, mortgage insurance, property tax, homeowners insurance and HOA dues — which is the figure that actually leaves your account. Switch to the annual view for a year-by-year summary, or download the full schedule as a CSV that opens in Excel, Google Sheets and Numbers.

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Showing 112 of 312 payments

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Download any scenario

Each file is generated in your browser — nothing is uploaded. Scenarios with a second lien include a separate block for each loan.

The link carries these figures inside it, after the #. That part of a web address is never sent to any server — not ours, not anyone’s — so sharing one transmits nothing. Anyone you send it to can read the figures in it.

Educational estimates only. Not financial, tax, or lending advice. Want every option side by side instead? Open the full comparison.

What does each one actually change?

They move different parts of the loan, which is why they can be compared at all.

Structural differences only. Minimum lump sums, fees and eligibility are set by your servicer; rates and closing costs by the lender. Confirm both before planning around either.

Why does the refinance side show a later break-even?

Because a new 30-year term restarts the interest-heavy years you have already paid through.

A recast keeps your place in the amortization schedule. A refinance sends you back to month one of a new one, where almost every dollar is interest. A lower rate over a longer term can still mean more total interest, and the comparison above charges each option for the balance it leaves owing so the two are genuinely comparable.

There is a way to have both: refinance into a term matching the years you have left rather than a fresh thirty. The guide to term resets covers what that costs and what it saves.

What if you do not have a lump sum?

Then the recast is not on the table at any price, and the comparison narrows to two.

A recast needs money in hand, usually above a minimum the servicer sets. Without it, the real choice is between refinancing and extra principal payments, which need no cash upfront but leave the required payment where it is.

That comparison is on its own page: recast vs extra payments. Say what cash you have in the eligibility block above and any option out of reach is marked, with the reason, rather than quietly costed as if you could take it.