Refi CompassMortgage decision tools

HELOC vs Home Equity Loan

Both borrow against the equity you have without touching the mortgage you already hold. The difference is not the rate on the day you sign — it is whether the payment can move afterwards.

Private by design. Your numbers stay on this device.

Educational estimates only. Not financial, tax, or lending advice.

Which one should you take?

Take the home equity loan when you know the amount and want the payment to be a fixed, knowable number for the life of the debt. The money arrives once, the rate is fixed, and the payment on the day you sign is the payment in year eight.

Take the HELOC when you do not yet know how much you need, or need it in instalments. You are charged only on what you have actually drawn, which is genuinely cheaper for a project that turns out smaller than planned — and you accept two risks in return: the rate is variable, and the payment steps up when the draw period ends.

Neither touches your first mortgage, so a below-market rate on it survives either way. That is what separates both of these from a cash-out refinance.

Built for US mortgages. Every figure below is an editable example you enter — never a live quote.

Stays on this device

Your mortgage today

Your first mortgage comes off your latest statement and is untouched by either option. Enter the same cash amount for both, or you are comparing the price of two different loans rather than two ways to borrow the same money.

The payoff balance you owe today, not the original loan amount.

Leave at 0 to calculate it from the balance, rate and term.

Sets the dates in the schedule below.

Today's value, used for loan-to-value and how much equity you can reach.

The cash you need, and the terms on offer

Only the figures this page needs.

The amount borrowed, whichever way you borrow it.

Points added when the draw period ends. Try 2 or 4.

Interest-only payments retire none of the balance, so the payment steps up sharply when repayment begins.

What you can actually reach

None of this changes the arithmetic. It decides which options are open to you, so an option you cannot take is not compared as if you could.

Servicers generally do not recast government-backed loans.

Optional. Leave at zero and no option is ruled out on cash.

Optional. What you could pay above the required payment, every month.

How long you will keep this mortgage

Costs are totalled over this period, not over the full term.

Results update as you type — this just jumps you down to them.

Over your 7-year stay

Read the payment step-up before the total. A HELOC that is cheaper over your stay can still be the wrong choice if the payment after the draw period is one you could not meet.

  • Keep current
    Monthly payment
    $2,767
    Net cost over your stay
    $465,286
    vs keeping your mortgage
    Break-even, ours
    Break-even, conventional
  • HELOC + mortgage
    Monthly payment
    $3,110
    Net cost over your stay
    $494,661
    vs keeping your mortgage
    -$29,375
    Break-even, ours
    Never recovers
    Break-even, conventional
    No monthly saving
  • Equity loan + mortgage
    Monthly payment
    $3,244
    Net cost over your stay
    $490,724
    vs keeping your mortgage
    -$25,438
    Break-even, ours
    Never recovers
    Break-even, conventional
    No monthly saving

Why two break-even figures? The conventional figure counts only the monthly payment saving against the cash you pay upfront. Ours also counts what you still owe when you sell, which is why the two disagree.

Compared over

the 7 years you expect to stay

Two break-even figures. The conventional figure counts only the monthly payment saving against the cash you pay upfront. Ours also counts what you still owe when you sell, which is why the two disagree.

How to read this: “Low” marks the lowest figure among the scenarios shown — it is not a recommendation. Net cost counts payments made plus the balance still owed at the end of your stay, minus cash received, which is what makes loans of different sizes and terms comparable.

Full amortization schedule

Every payment, month by month: how much goes to interest, how much retires principal, and what you still owe afterwards. The last money column is the all-in cost — principal, interest, any extra you send, mortgage insurance, property tax, homeowners insurance and HOA dues — which is the figure that actually leaves your account. Switch to the annual view for a year-by-year summary, or download the full schedule as a CSV that opens in Excel, Google Sheets and Numbers.

View

Showing 112 of 312 payments

Page 1 of 26

Download any scenario

Each file is generated in your browser — nothing is uploaded. Scenarios with a second lien include a separate block for each loan.

The link carries these figures inside it, after the #. That part of a web address is never sent to any server — not ours, not anyone’s — so sharing one transmits nothing. Anyone you send it to can read the figures in it.

Educational estimates only. Not financial, tax, or lending advice. Want every option side by side instead? Open the full comparison.

What actually separates them?

Four things, and only one of them is the interest rate.

Structural differences only. Rates, caps, draw lengths and fees vary by lender and by product — the figures above the table are the ones you entered.

What is the payment step-up, and why does it matter most?

A HELOC's draw period frequently requires interest only, which retires none of the balance.

For ten years you can pay a small amount and owe exactly what you owed at the start. Then the line converts to a repaying loan over a shorter remaining term, and the whole balance has to be cleared inside it. The payment does not rise gently; it steps.

Because the rate is variable, it can step again. The rate stress field in the HELOC block exists for that: set it to two or four points and read the payment after the draw period, not the one before it. A fixed home equity loan has no equivalent risk, and that certainty is most of what you are paying for.

Should either of these be a cash-out refinance instead?

Only if your first mortgage rate is at or above what lenders are offering today.

A cash-out refinance replaces your first mortgage entirely, so today’s rate applies to the whole balance rather than to the cash you needed. Where the existing rate is well below market, a second lien at a visibly higher rate is frequently the cheaper choice.

That three-way comparison has its own page: cash-out refinance vs HELOC vs home equity loan. This one holds the first mortgage fixed and asks only which second lien to take.